Essential Japan: Tokyo, Kyoto & Osaka

Welcome to Tokyo, the world's most fascinating city. From Narita, the Narita Express (N'EX) takes you to Shinjuku in 80 min (3,250 JPY).

Activate your Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass) for the day you take the Shinkansen. Your first night in Shinjuku: skyscrapers, neon and dinner at an izakaya under the train tracks (Memory Lane / Omoide Yokocho).

Tip: Buy a Suica/Pasmo card at the airport; it works on metro, buses, konbinis and vending machines.

Start at Meiji-jingu Shrine: a forest oasis in the middle of Tokyo. Upon exit, Takeshita Street in Harajuku is a pure explosion of color and Japanese fashion.

Head to Shibuya: the world's most famous crossing, Shibuya Sky (300m high) and the Hachiko statue. At night, bars in Shibuya and Ebisu are perfect.

Tip: Visit Meiji-jingu first thing in the morning; if you're lucky you'll see a traditional Shinto wedding.

Morning in Ueno: the park, Tokyo National Museum and if it's spring, the cherry blossoms. Lunch at Ameya-Yokocho, the street market under the train tracks.

In the afternoon, Shinkansen to Kyoto (2h15 with JR Pass). The bullet train is an experience in itself: punctual to the second, spotless and with views of Mt. Fuji if you sit on the right side.

Tip: Buy an ekiben (station bento) at Tokyo Station; it's a Japanese tradition to eat on the Shinkansen.

Double plan today. Start at Kiyomizudera, the temple with the wooden terrace suspended over the forest. The streets Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka leading down are beautiful.

In the afternoon, day trip to Nara (45 min by train): the sacred deer greet you (they literally bow for crackers), the Great Buddha at Todai-ji is impressive and the park is vast.

Tip: Don't carry food in plain sight in Nara; the deer are adorable but pushy and will surround you.

Last day. Free morning for last-minute shopping: if looking for souvenirs, Shinsekai neighborhood has retro shops and Tsutenkaku Tower.

Transfer to Kansai Airport (Haruka train, 75 min). Use the duty-free for Japanese Kit-Kat flavors, matcha and sake.

Tip: If you bought a lot, Japan has luggage shipping by takkyubin (courier); you can send bags from your hotel to the airport for about 2,000 JPY.